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Grand Canyon: Wonderful by dawn’s early light

July 16, 2004

the best time to see the canyon is undoubtedly at dawn or as dusk falls.

i have been lucky enough to visit the grand canyon 3 times. each time has been just a breathtaking as the previous. superlatives are often overused terms thanks to modern advertising - but trust me you will be using them after seeing nature’s greatest creation.

the canyon is the ultimate in “erosion sculpture” by the artist known as nature. man has labelled it a world heritage site. there are many ways of seeing the canyon as well as a north and a south rim option. i have done both and recommend them both. there are many alternative ways and things to do there.

these then are my best words of advice: -

- go at dawn and dusk - the changing colour an nature of the light is reflected in the rock itself displaying it’s truly varied colourings (during the day in summer the sun is so bright much of this variation is lost in uv)
- take the time to just sit still and say nothing to each other - share what you felt later - it is scary how deep most peoples emotions run after staring at “just a bit of old rock”
- take one more film than you can ever imagine using
- take sun block in summer and plenty of water and some good sunglasses
- do not think that some of the other comments saying we went past the sign that said “you will die if you pass here” are from sane, rational people - do what you are told - or join the mile low club’s permanent and lasting membership!

on your arrival at the canyon - you can read a vast amount of information provided by the national park service. there are many different viewpoints - each offering a fresh vista. the time of day affects which one’s offer the best views.

there is a full range of ways you can see the canyon rim, from walking, to by bicycle, mule, car, shuttle bus. each has it’s own merits and will depend on your level of fitness, the heat and how long you wish to stay.

Getting food inside can prove a hassle and a pricier experience without any worthwhile quality to show for it in my view. So we took picnic in and enjoyed them at the Rim.

Lodging nearby can be VERY expensive and is often less good quality than similar hotel chains elsewhere. Essentially, you are a captive market and the game is to milk you all for a few more dollars without going out their way. They know you have no choice and act accordingly. Beware though -as despite this they can fill up 100% and leave you with a very long drive to the nearest free bed.

In summary - if you have not seen it - try to. No film or documentary can prepare you for reality. Savour it - I can close my eyes and be there on the edge. Hoping I am lucky enough to see it a fourth time.

Some with less imagination will tell you it’s just a big hole - just like they view earth as a planet of little wonder. I doubt you will share their perspective, but if you do at least you can say you have been.

The details: -
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Where?
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In northern Arizona, the Grand Canyon National Park covers 277 miles of the Colorado River and adjacent uplands.

The South Rim is 60 miles N of Williams, Arizona - drive onto Route 64 from Interstate 40 or 80 miles NW of Flagstaff on Route 180.

You can fly to the Grand Canyon airport from Phoenix or Las Vegas. The culture shock going from Vegas to canyon is quite a tough one.

Greyhound buses only come as near as Flagstaff, from where you will need to switch to Amtrak.

The North Rim is 30 miles S from of Jacob Lake on Highway 67 with the canyon rim itself 14 miles further south. Jacob Lake is in northern Arizona adjacent to Utah.

When?
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The Canyon gets very hot and very busy in the summer - but during the winter road and weather conditions can make access very difficult if not impossible. Check things out with the local authorities on 928) 638-7888.

How much?
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Entrance to Grand Canyon National Park is $20 per private vehicle or $10 per pedestrian, motorcycle rider, or cyclist. This grants you access for seven days and includes both the North Rim and South Rim. But tough luck if the weather is foul - they offer no refunds!

US National Parks offer a variety of Passes e.g. annual passes or one’s that meet a variety of age criteria - ask before you pay. If you are on a big tour of the west - these might save you money.

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