I worked at the Grand Canyon for two years, and it was one of the best things I ever did in my life. Living and working in a national park is absolutely a wonderful experience. You get to see the park in all seasons, in every light, from sunrise to sunset and moonrise and beyond. You don’t just visit the park, you get to learn about the area, its people, and its moods. So, if you get the opportunity, run don’t walk, and work at a park!
Now that I’ve said that, working at a park also teaches you the best times to visit…when the tourists aren’t there! If you like feeling as if you have the park to yourself, obviously summertime isn’t going to be your first choice for a park vacation. Just as obviously, many people, especially those with families, can’t go at any other time. If you have to visit in the summer, try for very early (late April, early May), or very late (late September, early October). Even then, the crowds will be more than they would be at other times, but you may not run into as many people as say, the 4th of July. I would avoid three-day weekends like the plague.
Of course it goes without saying that the most popular points, like Yavapai, Hermit’s Rest, and Desert View are usually also the busiest in any season. One of my favorite ways to get away, and find some peace and quiet, even during the summer, was walk the short trail from the El Tovar Hotel to the Visitor’s Center. It’s not more than a mile, paved, and winds right along the rim of the canyon. There are plenty of places to sit and look out over the canyon, away from the crowds, hustle, and bustle. One of my favorite memories is sitting there one summer evening, right after dusk, and watching a big thunderstorm over on the North Rim. It was magical.
I think the very best time to visit the canyon is in the winter. If the roads are bad, try taking the train, it’s a great trip, and safer than driving. In the winter, the park takes on a whole different personality. It’s quiet, some of the lodges and restaurants are closed, and everything takes on a slower, calmer aspect. The employees and park personnel have more time to talk with you, and you can spend more time just staring out into the canyon in solitude, if you’d like to. The busiest times in the winter are over Christmas, and again, three day weekends. To avoid the crowds, avoid those times.
Winter at the canyon is a magic time. If you get the chance, make sure you visit this winter!
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